posted 11-13-2003 03:21 PM         

Exactly my point, no one knows so why am I incompitent for being unaware that the pup was going to start that day. He wasn't even 3 months yet. I usually seperate them at 12 weeks to be on the safe side but they were about 4 days shy of 12 weeks.

"How do you advise I seperate them? HMMM Kennels"

Okay this is my fault for not clearifying the question.

I said I couldn't get them apart in the first post, meaning while they were fighting they wouldn't let go, couldn't break them.
The question I was trying to ask is How do you suggest I break them???, thats what I ment by seperate, How do you think I should have gotten them apart?

Maybe you didn't read the whole thing because I said one got out of his kennel and got the otherone that was chained up on the second occasion. What do you think I ment when it said I seperate them at 12 weeks. I put them in their own kennels sometimes chained up. The one that was chained in this inccident I had been keeping inside most of the time, then letting him out to do his "duty".

They have been seperated since the first inccedent and I don't know what gave you the idea I just put them back in the kennel together. That would have been impossible if you think about it. They would have went RIGHT back at it immediatly. There would be a constant fight. If I just left them in there like an idiot one or both probably would have died.

"Do you have a method? You seperate the pups and then you wont have a problem!"

So at what age should I seperate them at then 6 weeks, 8 weeks? As soon as they are wheened?

Or should I just do it from birth and let them feed individually. I think I'll stick to my 12 weeks and if need be I'll do it younger. Most of the time when they seem to be not getting along I will go ahead, but this time I had no clue. They didn't fight, or dominate eachother and they didn't just get into a little spat. He truly started and this was a full blown fight. Has been on fire ever since.
Like we both agreed you don't know when they will start.

"Your statement "If you cant seperate pups you sure dont need adults!" Is really irrelevent their is an easy, sure fire way to seperate ADULTS it called a BREAKING STICK!
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WHy are pups different?

I think this is obvious, or at least it should be, maybe not but.... When was the last time you tried to seperate two 12 pound puppies,less than 12 week old with a breaking stick??? Did it work for you? Have it ever happened to you. Think about the size of a breaking stick compared to a tiny pups mouth. It won't fit, their is not enough space and that tiny mouth.

[This message has been edited by True_Pits (edited 11-13-2003).]

posted 11-13-2003 06:21 PM         

quote:

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wondering if you knew of any other ways to work out my dog?

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If your dog is over a year old, you can have them pulling weights, but I wouldn't start them any younger than that, as there's a potential for growth plate injuries. Light weights over long distances are better then heavy weights over short distances. A decent guideline is to keep the weight under 25% (or 1/4, whichever is easier for you to figure) of the dog's weight, and just increase distance or difficulty of terrain when they're ready for more. Hills and rough ground are more strenuous than smooth pavement, obviously. A lot would also depend on how the weight was supported. When I used to use drag weights with my dog, it was only about 5-10 lbs, and she weighed around 55-57 lbs at the time. At the same time though, she would pull my nephews in a kiddie wagon, they're 45 and 55 lbs (I'd usually have them trade back and forth, but occasionally she'd pull both, it depended on what we were doing, how long we'd been out, etc), through the yard and on the road, for the same amount of time, and the effect of that was similar to pulling the drag weight through the yard. Yet if she pulled them in the sled, through 3"+ of snow, she wore out much quicker. It's just a matter of common sense, you have to consider the terrain, traction (they'll be able to pull more easily on dry grass than on wet, on dirt than ice, etc) any slopes, weight they're pulling, plus the amount of resistance generated by the object (more surface area touching the ground=more resistance, wheels will decrease resistance, etc), and determine how much WORK they're actually putting in considering that to choose a good weight for them to work at. If you're going to use this type of exercise often, invest in a good harness, either a weight pull harness or a general working harness, that will help distribute the weight and has padding of some sort to cushion the dog.

You could also build them a springpole to play on, or (less conspicuous) a flirtpole. A springpole is a stationary tug, usually a pole or post, with an "arm" jutting off it, and the "hide" (I've heard of people using real hide, some use burlap, some use rope, whatever your dog likes) hanging down from that, with a spring, inner tube, or some other "bouncy" device between the hide and the arm so the tug has some give to it. Some dogs will play with them, some won't. One of our APBTs will play with one for a bit, then loses interest. The other APBT won't touch it unless I play too, which kinda defeats the purpose. Of course, our mini Dachshund LOVES to play tug, and will entertain herself for hours... go figure. Some people will just attach the hide to a tree branch, and let their dogs play on that, this can be a bad idea, as often, the branches aren't flimsy enough to allow for proper give, which can cause the dog to injure themselves. Some people hang the hide high enough that the dog has to jump up to get it, and hang from it.... others keep it low enough so all 4 feet stay on the ground. It's mostly just personal choice, though it IS safer to keep the tug lower, and the dog still gets a good workout from it. A flirtpole is like one of those cat toys, with the feathers on a string tied to a stick, except bigger, and for dogs. You fling the toy around them, teasing them and getting them to chase it, catch it, tug, etc. Goo's is 3/4" PVC with a piece of rope threaded through, about 6' hanging out one end, and a tug tied to the end of the rope. For the other two, I just use a scrap of leather, it's "flappy" enought to get their attention, and easy for them to hold, but small enough that it's hard to catch. I've also heard of people using bamboo for the pole, and people use all sorts of things for the "teaser".

posted 11-13-2003 07:21 PM         

The fight was over in 15 minutes yet my boyfriend said it seemed like hours and even when the loser was on the ground it was still baring its teeth and growling. The winner eventually had it pinned on the ground with its jaws on its throat, they were like that for about three minutes then apparently the owner said something to his dog and it just clamped down harder. I think the teeth closed its windpipe so it couldn't breathe!

When he told me I was disgusted that it wasn't broken up and everyone just stood there while the owner of the winning dog was urging on his dog! The owner of the losing dog didn't even bat an eyelash when the dog died!! He lost his money and his dog and said he would be back with another one!!

That kind of thing makes me sick!! The poor loser didn't even whimper just lay there and struggled to breathe while the other dog stood perfectly still clamped around it's throat waiting for the owner to praise it!!

I have asked my boyfriend heaps of times to tell me where this fight took place because I so badly want to dob them in to the RSPCA and have them thrown in Jail but he wouldn't say. He said he dosen't want to get involved! He didn't know there was a dogfight being held, he just went with his mate to have a few drinks and he walked in on the fight! He didn't like it but he STILL watched it till the end and even now we still have arguments over it!!!