posted 08-25-2003 08:36 PM         

[**NOTE TO POSTER: Edited Post. Please refrain from using inappropriate language in this forum. Thank you, Moderator]

posted 09-02-2003 09:19 PM         

In today’s competitive market, there are over 1000 brand names of dog foods, and equally as many boast that ‘theirs’ is the best. So how does the novice decide which food to feed and why?
Bag Labels:
Let’s begin by learning how to analyze what is in the bag. Labels tell the story. On all dog food labels we find panels of identification.
These panels cover the following information:
Company brand name and Logo (i.e.: Iams, Pedigree, Diamond, etc.)
Ingredient identifier. Such as, lamb and rice, chicken, chicken and rice, beef and so on.
Size and age identifier is also on this panel. This includes the size dog the food is appropriate for, and the age range. An example would be large breed puppy. And finally is the weight of the product in the bag. This information is noteworthy, but not where a seasoned dog expert looks to analyze dog food.
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The information guide shows us:

1. General analysis (shows the percentages of the food stuffs that makes up that particular brand).
2. Ingredients list (shows ingredients in descending order, by weight).
3. Nutritional adequacy claim (identifies life stage for which food is intended and whether animal feeding tests procedures were used).
4. Feeding instructions (how much of the food to feed your dog and how many times per day is recommended). The Guaranteed Analysis on the dog food label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat. It also shows the maximum levels of fiber and water. "Crude" refers to the total protein content, not the amount of protein that is actually digestible. What this means is that this is ONLY a crude protein percentage, and fat amounts are rough guides.
The amount of moisture in a food is important, especially when you are comparing foods. A food containing 24% protein and 10% moisture would have the same protein per serving as a food with 24% protein listed on the label but only 6% moisture. The thing to consider here is that you are buying water instead of food.
Ingredient Listing:
Ingredients are listed in descending order, by weight. However, the listings may be misleading. Suppose chicken is listed as the first ingredient. This would cause you to think it is the primary ingredient. This may not be the case. If it's followed by wheat flour, wheat germ, wheat middling and so on, the combined wheat products may very well total much more than the chicken.

Preservatives:
BHA and BHT are chemicals that have been used to preserve dog food. They are associated with liver damage, abnormalities in puppies, and have been linked to cancer.
Ethoxyquin is one of the most heard of and discussed preservatives. Links to cancer, thyroid abnormalities, and liver and kidney failure have been debated about this product. Propylene Glycol was actually designed for use in wax and antifreeze. It is associated with hair loss, skin problems, diarrhea and even death in dogs and cats.Sodium Nitrate is used as a food coloring as well as preservative. It has been shown to cause cancer. Tocopherals are considered the good news in preservatives for dog foods. They are a naturally occurring preservative, which function as antioxidants. The only downside to using tocopherals is their relatively short shelf life. Protein and Age:What is acceptable for a puppy concerning protein content is in no way appropriate for an aging dog. Many dog foods on the market carry a protein range of 23% to 29% and sometimes even higher. For a puppy or young dog that is active much of the day, this is an acceptable rate. However, for an aging dog, this amount of protein, particularly the 26 – 29% range can cause many problems; kidney failure, acidity in the urine, and obesity to name a few. It is wise to determine your dog’s activity level, age, and size before choosing a protein level. Comparisons:To effectively analyze the ratio percentages of fat, protein and digestible content, and discover which is the best food for our dog, we must do comparisons. We are not only trying to discover which is the best food for our dog, but which foods can be potentially dangerous to our dogs.
The time to analyze foods is not while you are in the pet supply store trying to choose the best food for your dog. If you ask ten passersby, you will get ten different answers about what brand to feed and why. Do your due diligence and compare the foods. Most pet stores and pet supply outlets have samples of all the brands they carry. They are generally yours for the asking. So ASK! Then take home the packages you have gotten and sit somewhere quiet with your favorite beverage, a notebook and pencil, and dissect the labels. Check for preservatives. Discard any that use chemical preservatives like Ethoxyquin. Narrow the field. Remember that dogs need more meat in their diets than roughage. They are carnivorous. If the label lists chicken as the first ingredient followed by poultry by product meal, then meat and bone meal, before listing wheat, or corn, you probably have the first food in your comparison that will pass the analysis. Don’t stop there. Compare them all. If one has more meat and meat by products, but also contains the chemical preservative, Propylene Glycol, put it in the loser stack and move on.

Dog foods with salmon, fishmeal, and egg should rate at the top of the list. Egg is the single most consumable protein for a dog. It rates above all other meats and meat by-products. As we learned in the beginner course, Immune 26 is an all egg product that is revitalizing the immune systems in our dogs, while providing a highly digestible form of protein.
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Other ingredients to look for in the best of the best dog foods include the following:

Biotin
Probiotics
Glucosamine
Fossil Mineral Powder
Lecithin
Olive Oil
Apple Cider Vinegar (may not be in dog food, but can be added as a spray on top.)
Sodium BentoniteEach of these ingredients has a unique property that adds to the health and well being of our dogs.
Lets look at the advantages of each more closely.
Biotin: Helps metabolize fats, carbohydrates and proteins. Biotin prevents anemia, muscular pain, and skin disorders.
Probiotics: This is a friendly bacterium that helps in the digestive process.
Glucosamine: This is believed to help in the treatment of osteoarthritis by helping to develop health bones and cartilage.
Fossil Mineral Powder: It is one of nature’s ways of eliminating parasites.
Lecithin: This ingredient lowers Blood Cholesterol levels. It is believed to that it also strengthens arteries thus controlling blood pressure.
Olive Oil: The useful fat in olive oil helps carry important vitamins through your dog’s body such as A, D, E and K.
Apple Cider Vinegar: Contains cholesterol-reducing pectin and the perfect balance of 19 minerals. It contains 93 different components that can help regulate blood pressure, fight off infections, relieve arthritis pains, promote healthy digestion, and improve metabolism. It also cleans out toxins from tissues and joints.
Sodium Bentonite: This is an aid in the digestive process.
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Raw Food Diets:

We can’t accurately analyze food without looking at the benefits of raw food and bones.
When we think of a dog in a natural state, they would largely consume small game and eat vegetation readily available. Therefore it stands to reason that our dogs would prefer raw meats and an assortment of vegetables to constitute a balanced diet.
Much is being written about these raw diets. Most people are singing the praises of the overall effect this food has on their dog’s health.
There are companies out there who sell tubes of food, claiming they are as good as a raw meat diet. This cannot possibly be true, because the mere step of processing this tube, removes it from its raw state. There are other companies who truly do sell a raw meat diet with added minerals and vegetables. For those with limited time, this is a good alternative.
There is a down side to feeding raw diets. A list of concerns is as follows.
· Some dogs are hard to train over to raw after so many years on kibble.
· Blending raw food is time consuming and generally messy.
· Figuring out the correct amounts and ratios for a dog is all by trial and error.
· Freezer space is needed so the food does not have to be prepared daily.
· Handling raw meat is not without some risk.
On the other hand, the benefits for a dog far outweigh the inconvenience. Many breeders are now starting their puppies out on the raw diet, and are experiencing healthier puppies overall. What kind of food to feed, and analyzing what are acceptable ingredients is a personal choice.

In summary, we have learned that not all foods are created equal. A wise dog owner will check labels and determine which food is best. As an expert, you can assist people with information and understanding how to read labels, but only the owner can make the final choice. Beware of additives and chemical preservatives, and remember, the dog is a carnivore, and should be fed like one.

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"Dogs love their friends and bite their enemies,
quite unlike people, who are incapable of pure love
and always have to mix love and hate."

- Sigmund Freud
Susan M.B. Parker

posted 09-20-2003 12:45 PM         

Stuff that is sold at supermarkets I would avoid. Why? Most dog food companies don't really care what they put in their dog food as long as it sells and meets AAFCO standards (which doesn't take much, btw). They do not use human grade meat, that means that rendered dogs and cats; unmentionable body parts and downer (sick, diseased) animals are put in your dog food. Furthermore, most dog foods contain a lot of grain which are pure fillers and have no nutritional benefit whatsoever. Besides, allergies to grains is extremely common in dogs.

I would only use dog foods that contain human grade, USDA (or any other agriculturally approved meat, dependent on country) approved meat. I also would only use dog food whose first three ingredients are pure meat ingredients (no by products, bone meal or the like).

So, the dog foods I would recommend are: Innova, Canidae, Wysong, Wellness, Chicken Soup (actually has first five ingredients meat), Solid Gold (altho it isn't my favorite, it is in the top ten recommended by WDJ) and there are a few others that I am missing.

My dog is a 4 year old APBT. She is in perfect health. When I got her I put her on Eukanuba Premium for a good weight gaining diet (she was over 20 lbs underweight). Afte she got the weight back on, I put her on Innova.

posted 09-20-2003 03:27 PM         

Angie

posted 10-09-2003 09:39 AM         

also if you are from louisiana and have a adba registered, short, red nose up for stud, please email me soon!

posted 10-28-2003 04:08 PM         

Fresh, Pure, Wholesome Ingredients
AAFCO Statement

Animal feeding tests using Association of American Feed Control Officials procedures substantiate that Chicken Soup for the Puppy Lover's Soul™ Puppy Formula provides complete and balanced nutrition for all life stages.
Ingredients:
Chicken, turkey, chicken meal, turkey meal, whole grain brown rice, whole grain white rice, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), oatmeal, potatoes, cracked pearled barley, millet, duck, salmon, egg product, flaxseed, natural chicken flavor, kelp, carrots, peas, apples, dried skim milk, cranberry powder, rosemary extract, parsley flake, potassium chloride, salt, choline chloride, dried chicory root, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, menadione sodium bisulfite (source of vitamin K activity), riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.

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Guaranteed Analysis

posted 10-28-2003 11:09 PM         

[This message has been edited by justice82003 (edited 10-29-2003).]