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Getting started with your aquarium (the complete beginners guide)

Aquarium - the definition
Selecting the right tank
Supporting the tank
Lighting and cover
The right water temperature
The right type of filter
Gravel & ornaments
Water test kits
Setting up the tank 
Buying and adding the fish


Selecting gravel & ornaments
Aquariums in homes & in public display require a gravel bottom which, from aesthetic
viewpoint, mimics the bottom of a pond & provides a good base for rooting plants. For
most freshwater aquaria, you should use gravel that can be purchased from a local pet
shop, that is intended for freshwater use. It is available in a rainbow of colors & the size
of the gravel or pebbles come in a range of sizes. The gravel size is important for a few
reasons. if you are using an under gravel filter, the spaces between gravel particles
should allow free water flow & ample aeration for bacteria which will eventually colonize
the surface of the gravel particles. You should follow this general rule: 1-lb. of gravel per
every gallon of aquarium water. If you have a 10 gallon tank, you should use 10 lbs. of
gravel. Sand should not be used as an aquarium substrate. The particles of sand are
extremely small & result in packing & reduces water flow. Aquatic plants also require 
a bed which will allow diffusion of nutrients to the roots.

Decorating your aquarium provides both benefits for you & for the fish. First of all, a 
fully decorated aquarium looks GREAT in any room in your household. Secondly, 
many fish are territorial, & rock formations along with plants & a variety of other
decorations will provide needed territorial landmarks & boundaries. Also, smaller fish 
may need a place to hide when escaping larger species, a place of refuge in small 
nooks provided by rock formations. Decorations also provide shade for species of fish
which may require darker areas. Not all decorations are suitable for freshwater
aquariums. Coral, seashells, limestone & marble will dissolve in freshwater & may
increase the pH to unacceptable levels. Galvanized metals, copper objects, or steel 
can caused heavy metal poisoning, especially in areas where the pH is on the acid 
side of neutral, & the water is soft. If you wish to use any rocks, driftwood or gravel 
taken from natural streams or ponds, they should be soaked in a diluted solution of
chlorine bleach & water, then rinsed with fresh water, soaked in fresh water, & rinsed
again. This will avoid the introduction of snails, or other unwanted invertebrates & free
living nematodes. 

Using a background behind the aquarium serves to the beauty of the tank as well as to
create the darker areas preferred by shy species of fish. It will cover up the unwanted
look of hanging wires & filters etc. so the look you are trying to achieve will be more
natural & beautiful.

Water test kits
The serious aquarist should invest in water test kits which will enable you to measure 
& keep track of pH, ammonia, nitrites, & water hardness. Most kits sold are easy to 
use & are based on color changes in the sample being tested, then compared to a 
color standard. Some kits are supplied with liquid reagents, others with powdered 
ones. pH kits include powders or liquids to change the actual pH itself, other kits 
such as ammonia & water hardness, only supply the test itself. The only way to 
change the results of these tests is with water changes to the aquarium, special 
resins, or products sold specifically for the problem you encounter.

Once you have set up the tank in the desired position, you may now install the under
gravel filter plate & all its components if you choose this type of filtration. Next, add 
the washed gravel to about a depth of 1 to 3 inches, depending on whether or not you 
are using an under gravel filter. Slope the gravel higher in the back & lower in the front, 
so that the view of everything is towards the front of the aquarium. After the gravel is
added, fill the aquarium part way so that it is easier for you to set the rock formations,
plastic plants & other decorations (make sure these items are rinsed & cleaned
thoroughly before you add them). You may add a shallow pan to prevent the gravel
from being displaced, while you are adding the water. 

Construction of caves & recesses makes for more interesting viewing, while providing
shelter for more timid species of fish. When building these formations do not cover the
entire bottom from end to end, doing so will limit the water flow through the gravel bed.
Be artistic but do not over do it.

Plastic plants or live plants should be placed with the taller varieties toward the back 
& in positions to hide the tubes, heater, etc. Live plants need optimum water conditions,
lighting & nutrients, so waiting to add them to the aquarium until the water has been
established for a period of time, may be your best bet.

When installing the heater, placement should be where the most circulation of water 
will occur. Although most aquarium hoods have a section already cut out for the heater,
you can always place an air stone by it (but not under the intake tube of a power filter) 
for circulation of heat so there will be uniformity of water temperature throughout the
aquarium water. The temperature should be set before the addition of fish. Let the 
heater acclimate to the aquarium water for about a half an hour, then you will need to
plug in the heater (after the tank is filled) & position the thermometer where it is readable
but always in a central location on the glass (it does not have to be placed in the front of
the aquarium). Follow the manufacturers instructions on setting the heater, & monitor it
closely for the first 24 hours. Adjust it as required to obtain the desired temperature.

Providing aeration is the next matter of concern. When air tubing is connected to an air
stone or decoration, there is always the chance of water back-siphoning into the tubing 
& the pump if it is placed on a table or stand behind the aquarium, & lower than the level
of water in the aquarium. This can be avoided if the air pump is positioned higher than
water level, or with the use of an anti-siphon valve (check valve), inserted in air lines.
When using more than one air stone or lift tube( from an under gravel filter), you can
purchase a gang valve with multiple split outlets for multiple uses of the tubing. Also, 
the air pump must be powerful enough to supply air to run its intended item when there
are multiple items, & to pump in deep aquariums where the air pressure can be more
than in shallow tanks.

After all of these steps are completed, & the tank is filled with water, you may now add
your power filter or other mechanical filtration. Again, follow the set-up instructions as
supplied by the manufacturer, & position it so that the flow of water is in the center of 
the aquarium, for even distribution of water flow. When it is plugged in, & operating
properly, you will need to let it run continuously day & night. It is not recommended to
shut it off at night or at any time except for maintenance & water changes. This is so 
the motor will not run "dry" & become damaged when you drain down the water during
maintenance. If the filter is constantly turned on & off unnecessarily, your power filter
may be subjected to wear & tear, or the water may not remain consistently healthy due
to the lack of flow of freshly circulated water.

There are a few things you will need to do to prepare the water for your new fish.
Dechlorinating the water if the local water supply adds chlorine at the main pumping 
plant which destroy bacteria pathogenic to to humans. Chlorine can be removed from 
tap water in 3 ways. Aeration of water, will result in diffusion of chlorine into the air. By
letting the water filter for 24 hours, you will achieve this. Passing water through activated
carbon is another way, which brings us back to filtering the aquarium for at least 24
hours. Most faucet-end water purifiers sold to improve the taste of tap water are charged
with activated carbon. Finally, adding sodium thiosulfate to tap water, immediately
inactivates chlorine. Sodium thiosulfate is sold under a variety of trade names. When
purchased, follow the dosing instructions as labeled on the bottle. In some municipal
water plants, ammonia is added to react with chlorine to form chloramine. This can also
be a problem for aquariums & can also be removed with the addition of sodium thiosulfate
to the water. It is recommended that you add aquarium salt ( uniodized table salt or
kosher salt ) to the aquarium. The general rule is 1 tablespoon per every 5 gallons of
aquarium water. The addition of this salt IS for freshwater (saltwater salt mixture is
different & can be bought in pet shops), you can also use this salt for brackish water,
which would be at the ratio of 1 teaspoon per every 1 gallon of water. Please keep in
mind that salt does not evaporate, so you must keep track of the levels of salt added to
the aquarium. When the time comes for water changes, you must replace only the salt
that you removed with the change. Some species of fish do not prefer the addition of salt
to the water, so research the fish you wish to keep & determine if you will even need to
add the salt.

The pH value of water may differ in various parts of the country, & in some cases the
water may require some adjustment before adding fish. Fish can generally tolerate a 
wide range of pH without problems. A pH of 6.5 to 7.8 for most species of fish is an
acceptable range for maintenance of optimal health. You may want to research the
species you would like to keep, before you buy them so that you can set the pH to
required range for that species. If in doubt, keep the pH at true neutral (7.0).