Aquarium - The right type of filter, the right water temperature

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Getting started with your aquarium (the complete beginners guide)

Aquarium - the definition
Selecting the right tank
Supporting the tank
Lighting and cover
The right water temperature
The right type of filter
Gravel & ornaments
Water test kits
Setting up the tank
Buying and adding the fish

Aquarium cover and lighting
Most aquariums are manufactured so that various types of covers or hoods fit them
snugly. If you do not use a cover, evaporation will be a problem. As the water
evaporates, the concentration of dissolved minerals & organics, which include fish
waste, uneaten food, plant debris, etc. will tend to rise. A cover will keep the air
directly over the water closer to the temperature of the water, minimizing heat loss
and maximizing the efficiency of the heater. Using a cover will also prevent the fish
from jumping out of the tank, which is an otherwise frequent occurrence. Most
aquarium hoods are available in either fluorescent or incandescent illumination.
Incandescent fixtures are less expensive than fluorescent ones, but incandescent
uses more electricity & will give off heat. Fluorescent bulbs burn cooler & will not
affect the water temperature as incandescent will, plus they use less electricity
and can be purchased in sizes which cover the entire aquarium to provide an even
distribution of light for plant growth. The aquarist has a wide choice of types of
fluorescent bulbs which emit various spectrums of light waves, some of which will
stimulate plant growth, including algae. If you choose not to grow live plants, there
are bulbs available which are more suitable for highlighting the coloration of a tank's
fish then for stimulating plant growth. The wattage required for optimal plant growth
depends upon the size of the tank. The rule-of-thumb is 1.5 watts per gallon of water.
i.e., a 30 gallon tank would require a 40 watt bulb, or a pair of 20 watt bulbs. The
performance of fluorescent bulbs will degrade over time. You might want to replace
them about every 8 months, to ensure the best conditions for plant growth. Most
manufacturers suggest you use it longer, but it is up to you when you can afford to
replace a bulb.

The amount of light required for an average aquarium is between 8 & 10 hours. If you
choose to purchase incandescent lighting, then I suggest you only use the light for a
few selected hours of the day; during feeding and to view your aquarium when observing
the fish. Otherwise the water temperature may rise too high temporarily during the day,
especially in smaller aquariums. Then at night when you switch off the light, the
temperature will drop substantially which may lead to health problems in the fish.

Keeping the right water temperature - Buying the heater
The water temperature that you desire can easily be maintained by a thermostatically
controlled water heater, that you immerse into the aquarium. Without any form of
controlled heating, the water will fluctuate with the room temperature. The wattage of
a heater determines its power. The more wattage the more heat will be generated by
the heater to warm your aquarium. The larger the tank the more wattage it will require
from the heater to warm the water efficiently, and vice versa for smaller tanks. A rule of
thumb to determine the size of the heater you will require is as follows: 50 watts per 10
gallons of water.

There are a few types of heaters available to the aquarist depending on your budget &
how you would like the look of your aquarium to be. Impressible heaters hang from the
back of the tank into the aquarium water, with the thermostat remaining above water for
easy setting & observance from time to time.

Fully submersible heaters are set inside the tank by the use of suction cups, & are
secured to the back wall of the water filled aquarium. The benefits to the submersible
heater are that you can arrange the heater any way you like so that it is hidden by
plants & decorations. The disadvantages are that the thermostat control is on the top
of the heater which will be submersed at all times while the heater is on, & in the water.
You will need to carefully place your hand into the water & move the heater up to the
top of the water, without lifting it out (or the heated glass, if taken out, could crack or
explode glass everywhere) and look at the thermostat as it is slightly submerged in
water, only if you need to adjust it for any reason. This may seem complicated but it
is not that difficult once you have read the manufacturers directions & used the heater
a couple of times. If you decide on coldwater species such as goldfish, I still
recommend the use of a heater. The reason for this is because room temperature will
always fluctuate. You can set the heater to the warmest room temperature in the colder
seasons so that there will not be a drop at any time, like at night when your dad turns
down the heat. (don't you just hate that?) The same rule applies during the warmer
seasons.

If you do not have the luxury of central air conditioning during the summer, and the
room temperature reaches 30° C in the daytime, then you have to set the heater to
that temperature, so that when the air temp. at night drops -10C°, your water temp.
won't do the same. Goldfish or tropical fish, neither of the species can withstand a
drop that drastic.

Choosing filtration
Buying an air pump is a necessity for modern aquariums today. They serve many
functions such as for use with simple air stones or diffusers positioned at the bottom
of the aquarium to circulate water by the upward movement of air bubbles. This helps
to agitate the surface water which increases the air-water interface, causing an
increase of the rate of diffusion of atmospheric gases into the water & dissolved
carbon dioxide from the water. Air pumps also can be used to run under gravel filters.
A variety of air pumps are available, & all generate some noise which should be
evaluated before purchasing the pump.

Of all the many varieties of filters & filtration materials available for use in the aquarium,
they can be categorized functionally as mechanical, biological or chemical. Many filters
combine two or more of these types in a single unit.

Mechanical filtration functions by trapping suspended particulate matter which could
include uneaten fish food, fish waste, or any kind of biological or inert particles. The
size of the matter which a mechanical filter will remove and the time required for
removal depends upon the density and the quality of the filter material. Filter media
include foam, floss, gravel, or diatomaceous earth. These act as a barrier to fine
suspended particles when adsorbed to a filter screen. Mechanical filters will eventually
clog & their media will require cleaning or replacement. Mechanical filters include:
Power filters, canister filters, internal submersible power filters, & power heads (for
use only with under gravel filters).

Biological filtration oxidize fish waste products, primarily by changing ammonia to
nitrites. The bacteria involved in this process, collectively known as nitrifiers, are
common in nature & are introduced into the aquarium along with water & fish. The
biological filtration available include: Under gravel filters, dirt magnets (sponge filters),
canister filters (also considered mechanical), & wet-dry filtration.

Chemical filtration entails passing aquarium water through a substance capable of
changing the chemistry of the water. The type of change produced will depend on the
substance included in the filter. Some of the common chemically active filter media
include: Activated carbon, which absorb a wide variety of organic substances including
those that are color & odor producing. It will not remove ammonia or nitrites, nor will it
soften water. It is used primarily to clarify water.

Ammonia-adsorbing clays, also known as zeolite, which is sold in the form of chips.
Many have the capacity to adsorb positively charged ammonium (NH 4 +) and can be
used in filters. Ion-exchange resins are used in some areas where water is "hard"; that
is , it contains extremely high levels of calcium & magnesium ions. Frequently, the pH
of such water is relatively high (7.4-9.0). There are a surprising amount of fish that can
tolerate high levels of these minerals in water, but many species will only breed under
softer, more acidic water conditions.

Synthetic resins can be placed into a filter to soften water. When water is passed
through this type of resin, a water-hardness test will indicate that the water as been
softened. Oyster shell or coral gravel are used in a filter in areas where soft water has
a tendency to become abruptly acidic. These minerals contribute calcium carbonate to
the water, increasing hardness & buffering capacity. Water in an un buffered aquarium
may decrease in pH to levels where fish are so severely stressed they may die.

Peat moss has been used in filters to soften water & induce spawning. It is likely that
peat moss releases a hormone stimulating substance into solution, which is why they
are induced to spawn. Also, peat moss used in a filter will impart a light brown color to
water. There is no good or bad filter. The various types available have distinct
applications, depending on a variety of factors. These include: Expense, tank size,
number and/or size of the fish kept, & whether the aquarium houses freshwater or
saltwater fish. Practically every hobbyist, retailer, or authority will have his or her own
strong opinions on exactly what is best, but successful filtration always has both
mechanical & biological components. (Chemical filtration is required on a basis of need
for special water requirements.) These processes can be carried out using very simple
or very expensive filter units- fish do not know the difference as long as the water quality
is good!


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